Healthy Skin Expert Dermatology Advice

To Cleanse Or Not To Cleanse…

It’s 11 p.m. The children are asleep, and the laundry is folded. Do you wash your face, smooth on night cream, and climb into bed primed and protected? If you’re a busy mom like me, chances are you probably don’t. (Shameful truth: most nights, I’m lucky if I manage to swipe at my face with a baby wipe before my head hits the pillow.)

Bad idea, says Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett, MD, FRCPC, DABD – especially if you wear makeup. “We’re not supposed to be putting makeup on our face. Our bodies aren’t designed for that.”

To give my skin the chance to rejuvenate while I sleep, I need to find time to cleanse– no matter how tired I am. “With a good cleanser you don’t need to spend more than 15 seconds,” Dr. Kellett tells me.

Perfect!

On an oily-skin day – and after an exercise class – I try Clear Clinical Exfoliating Gel Cleanser ($42 online, $49 in-clinic). The gel base buffers the exfoliating beads and my skin doesn’t feel abraded.

From Elevate Magazine, May/June 2009 - Written by Marissa Stapley-Ponikowski

Exfoliate Your Way to a Brighter You

INTERVIEW WITH DR. LISA KELLETT, MD FRCP(C) DABD, DERMATOLOGIST, DIRECTOR OF THE DLK ON AVENUE DERMATOLOGY CLINIC, TORONTO

Exfoliation may just be the key to brighter, healthier and younger-looking skin.

We asked Dr. Lisa Kellett to explain:

What is exfoliation?
One must first understand the structure of the skin. The outermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) is mainly composed of dead skin cells which have lost their DNA, and winch consist primarily of a basket-weave--like mesh of keratin protein. These cells slough off on their own to be replaced by new cells. Exfoliation accelerates this natural cell turnover by removing the keratinized cells. While the main benefit of exfoliation is cosmetic, to brighten and rejuvenate the appearance of the skin, there are cases where it is medically advantageous. For example, exfoliation may help increase the absorption of topical treatments for conditions such as psoriasis.

What is the correct way to exfoliate?
Ideally, one wants to strike a balance between removing dead cells without irritating the skin. This can easily be accomplished by using some of the products that are available on the market such as cleansers, microdermabrasion scrubs (winch can be used once or twice a week) and topical alphahydroxy acid creams. Commercially available exfoliants are mild enough for regular use when following the manufacturer’s directions. However, even a washcloth or loofah sponge can be used to exfoliate the skin as long as one is gentle. It is also important to choose a product destined for the area you wish to exfoliate: a facial exfoliant will be much milder than one for the heels of your feet. Overly aggressive exfoliation by any of these methods can lead to skin damage.

What can a dermatologist do?
Your doctor can offer more aggressive treatments, e.g higher concentrations of topicals such as alpha hydroxy acid peels, or more mechaincal approaches, e.g diamond or crystal microdermabrasion, all of which require application by a skilled professional. It should be noted that these more aggressive treatments are generally better tolerated by mature skin which has a lower rate of cell turnover than younger skin and thus a greater buildup of keratinized cells.
How can one choose the right system?
Almost anyone can exfoliate, even people with sensitive skin or with a preexisting skin disorder such as rosacea, as long as they use a very mild exfoliant. Consult a dermatologist to decide which system is right for you. Exfoliate your way to a brighter you!

From A Patients Guide to Medical Information, Summer-Fall 2007

Time Will Tell

Stopping the clock may be impossible, but your future doesn’t have to be all doom, gloom and wrinkles. Here’s how to slow the effects of time when it comes to your skin.

SUNSCREEN While you may have enjoyed sunning yourself on the patio this summer, your skin hasn’t forgotten it.  In fact, 90 percent of skin’s aging is due to sun exposure, according to Toronto-based dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett. With UVA rays still strong in winter, it’s important to always slather on a broad-spectrum sunscreen before you head outdoors.

THE ACIDS Alpha and beta hydroxy acids, including glycolic and salicylic acids, are chemical exfoliants. They break the bonds between cells, which helps dead skin shed more easily – no scrubbing required. “I’m a huge fan of exfoliation because as you age, your skin doesn’t turn over as quickly, and getting rid of the dead cells is one of the best ways to make your skin look brighter,” says Kellett. Glycolic acid at professional-grade strengths can also boost collagen production.

From Glow Magazine, October/November 2006.  To read the entire article please click here