Healthy Skin Expert Dermatology Advice

LET THE SUN SHINE - GET SUN SAVVY AND COVER UP WITH THE RIGHT SPF THIS SUMMER

GET SUN SAVVY AND COVER UP WITH THE RIGHT SPF THIS SUMMER

Starlets like Madonna and Kate Winslet shun the sun to maintain their youthful-looking skin. But when summer roles around for us sun-starved Canadians, chances are we’re going to soak in a few rays at the cottage, on a patio or at the beach. So now is a great time to brush up on your sun smarts.

FACE TIME
Our faces get the most direct exposure to damaging UVA rays (which cause damage on the cellular level) and UVB rays (those responsible for sunburn). In fact, almost 90 per cent of the visible signs of aging, including wrinkles and brown spots, can be attributed to sun exposure, so it’s essential to wear the right broad-spectrum sun protection to ward off damage.

Thanks to improved formulas and updated textures, sunscreen is easier to apply than ever. “Clear spray sunblocks with an SPF of 30 are effective, light, invisible and have great staying power,” says Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto-based cosmetic dermatologist. “They work for all skin types, from normal to oily and prone to breakouts.”

The best way to apply a spray is to douse a cotton pad in the formula and evenly smooth it over your face so that don’t accidentally spray it in your eyes. “Most people are not applying enough,” says Dr. Kellett. “The actual SPF testing is performed using a thickness of sunscreen that is much thicker than what we typically use,” she continues. To be safe, use a quarter-size amount for your whole face and neck. And don’t forget about layering an SPF on you lips as well – they are the most sensitive area on your face. If you plan to spend a lot of time outdoors, limit your use of products that contain retinol and glycolic acid, as they can increase your sensitivity to the sun.

BODYGUARD
When shielding your body, you need at least a full palm of sunscreen lotion to properly cover the whole area. It’s best to apply it at least 15 minutes before you head outdoors – this way you’re fully protected the moment you step outside. And be through. The most commonly missed spots are the back of the neck, tips of the ears and calves,” says Dr. Kellett. If you have a spot that’s hard to reach, ask a friend for help or cover up with clothing. Remember that even if you plan to seek out shade, you still need to wear sunscreen, as UV rays can penetrate shady spots. Reapply at least once every two hours, or more if you are swimming or perspiring.

FEEL THE BURN
Even the most diligent sunscreen user can sometimes miss a spot and end up with a burn. If skin is inflamed, get relief by applying a cold compress or an after-sun lotion that contains anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as aloe. Steer clear of taking hot showers or baths, along with fragrance-heavy products and those with aggressive active ingredients like glycolic acid or retinol – these can all lead to further inflammation. If you do get a severe burn (that blisters, for instance), consult a dermatologist. “There are prescription topical medications we can prescribe to drastically reduce the effects of a sunburn,” says Dr. Kellett.

From HELLO! Canada Magazine - July 27 2009 | Written by Jill Dunn

Beautiful Traditions - Wondering what your something old, new, borrowed and blue will be? We’ve got some beauty idea!

Borrowed
Star Style
When it comes to looking glam, why not do as the glitterati do? Here are three of our favourite red-carpet beauty trends that we love for your wedding day.

RED LIPS
Seen on: Amanda Seyfried
Why we love them: They are a glamour girl classic! Put a fresh spin on this look by skipping the matte lipstick and trying a raspberry-colored lip shine instead.
Try: Philosophy Red Licorice, $16.

BRONZED SKIN
Seen on: Amy Adams
Why we love it: A dusting on the cheeks, chin and forehead makes skin luminous. To get the glow, without the glitter, use a matte powder—we guarantee you will look fresh from St. Tropez.
Try: Cargo Bronzer in Medium Matte, $26.

SMOKY EYES
Seen on: Penelope Cruz
Why we love them: Nothing makes your peepers pop like a good smudge of dark liner paired with sultry, shimmering shadows in complementary shades.
Try: Du Wop Rose Eyes Palette, $36.

Old
Classic Fragrances
Trying to find your wedding-day scent? A great place to start is by sniffing out a few oldies but goodies; juices renowned as favourites by generations of stylish brides. Here are five of the best classics: Chanel No. 5 Eau Première ($150 for 150 ml). Lancôme Trésor Eau de Parfum ($93 for 50 ml). Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Toilette ($78 for 50 ml). Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps Eau de Toilette ($94 for 100 ml). Calvin Klein Eternity Eau de Parfum ($89 for 100 ml).

New
Skin Saviours
Dermalogica’s ChromaWhite TRx line is designed to brighten uneven skin tones. Our pick: Dermalogica ChromaWhite TRx Extreme C, $111 (dermalogica.com). Another facial wonder: Intraceuticals Oxygen Infusion Treatment. We tried it at Toronto’s DLK on Avenue and the results were absolutely stunning.

Blue
Nail Polish
We love the idea of a pretty pedicure with a polish like Rimmel’s Underground Play Fast in Chill ($5) tucked inside your shoes. More great blues: OPI Russian Navy ($11) and Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Xtreme Wear in Ocean View ($3).

From WeddingBells - Fall/Winter, 2009

Cosmetic Undertreatment - More are opting for subtle results with less invasive procedures

With the obvious exception of certain Hollywood stars — Nicole Kidman, we’re looking at you — in most cases, today’s name in the cosmetic-enhancement game is “undertreat.”

Top cosmetic dermatologists and surgeons are taking a judicious approach to injectibles such as Botox and Juvederm (a filler) and incorporating chemical peels and laser treatments such as IPL (intense pulsed light) and fraxel to help patients look naturally youthful rather than plastic.

“In L.A. the objective tends to be to erase all expression,” confirms cosmetic surgeon Dr. Jean Carruthers, clinical professor in the Department of Ophthalmology at the University of British Columbia and one of the pioneers of Botox use in facial rejuvenation.

“Stars know their faces are on display at least 10 times the size of reality and in high definition. But in other cities, we’re seeing more sensitivity to needing movement and character in faces.”

A proponent of combining Botox treatments with fillers to lessen time’s boot-print on the face, Carruthers says facelift numbers are actually down from previous years.

“We lose volume in certain areas as we age,” she points out. “Fillers were about filling in a line or wrinkle, but they’ve become more important when it comes to replacing volume. They give a softer effect than, say, cheek fillers, and work better with each patient’s unique features.” Fillers also mean no down time and relatively little discomfort.

Dr. Diane Wong, owner of Glow Medi Spa in Toronto’s Yorkville area, says most women still don’t want anyone to know they’re having anything done.

“My patients don’t want the skating-rink forehead; they’d rather keep a few fine lines or small wrinkles. So I take a baby-steps approach.” Her objective is not to change the face, but simply to rewind a few years. Wong’s undertreat philosophy sometimes has the occasional patient thinking she can’t see a difference, but Wong says it’s because over time patients adjust to the changes. “Going through all the ‘before’ photos we took together always reassures them.”

Glycolic-acid peels and IPL, Fraxel and ProFractional laser treatments smooth skin, reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen production and even out the complexion, all of which contribute to a younger looking face without going over the top, says Dr. Lisa Kellett, owner of DLK on Avenue, also in Toronto’s Yorkville area. “Non-surgical skin tightening technology such as Thermage also continues to get better and better,” she adds.

There’s a line in the cosmetic-procedure sand, says Carruthers. “Cross it and you look done. Most people don’t want that anymore.”

From metro Toronto, text by Janine Falcone - May 19, 2009

Dare to Bare - Tailor-made for your décolletage, the latest formulas and treatments will protect your precious assets

Chests get a lot of action in Hollywood. On-set, they can be bound, pushed up, prodded, inflated, highlighted, contoured and finally, set free. “There’s a whole lot of stretching pulling and tugging in this area,” says Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto-based dermatologist, “far more so than the face.”

Despite all this movement and exposure, the skin here gets surprisingly little TLC – and that applies to all of us, not just the stars. But Dr. Kellett says our chests should get more pampering, “because the décolleté skin is thinner, more susceptible to sun damage and slower to heal from injury or age-related changes.”

It’s not too late: you can protect and preserve your delicate chest area with a range of new potions and, if cost is no issue, professional treatments.

Counter Talk

Skin is skin, so don’t stop your beauty regimen at your jaw line. Otherwise, you’ll fall prey to what New York City-based celebrity makeup artist BJ Gillian describes as “That tell-tale contrast between a face that has been immaculately cared for and a chest that’s been neglected and look 4,000 years old.”

Age spots are often the first culprits to creep up on the décolletage. But by using products containing naturally derived substances that penetrate deeply and are said to stop the triggering of melanin (brown pigment) before it forms, you can bare you assets with confidence. Look for cream, lotion and serums containing glucosamine (a sugar), niacinamide (a vitamin B derivative) or that longtime favourite, vitamin C – all of which offer unparalleled skin brightening.

Lines and crepiness are the next biggest offenders. With the decrease in humidity during winter, skin loses water and can take on the appearance of cracked porcelain. “Regular moisturizing means you won’t have to resort to prescription creams for common winter conditions like eczema,” says Dr. Kellett. For an intense boost of hydration, look for products containing omega fatty acids as well as creams or gels with caffeine, co-enzyme Q10 and retinol (a vitamin A derivative) – all of which temporarily dilate epidermal cells for smoother, younger-looking skin. Apply morning and night, but as for following the instruction on the package and applying in “an upward circular motion,” Dr. Kellett just laughs.

“Don’t bother. Years of sun does way more damage than you could do in 15 seconds of pulling the skin around your breasts in a downward, non-circular motion.”

And remember, every now and again nothing beats a light application of good old-fashioned Vaseline before bed. “Stars have been doing it for years,” notes BJ.

A Little Extra Help

Good skin care starts with wearing lots of sunscreen as a child. If your mom forgot to protect your chest and neck, or if you once fried yourself on a tropical vacation, your décolletage may have turned into a road map that no over-the-counter product can improve. That’s when it’s time to consult a dermatologist.

He or she can offer prescription vitamin C creams (about $200 per bottle) with a 35 per cent concentration that rapidly fades brown spots. Intense pulsed light treatments fade more stubborn red and brown spots from sun damage in six sessions (which can cost up to $2,500).

But for the darkest age spots, Dr. Kellett recommends one session with a Q-switched ruby laser (starts at $350). This gizmo shoots short pulses of intense red light that absorb excess melanin in skin.

To smooth out a wrinkly chest, she recommends prescription retinol and vitamin A creams. Applied topically, they trigger collagen regeneration, creating noticeably firmer skin. Another option: ProFractional resurfacing, which uses laser to burn off tissue and remodel collagen. And for those pesky skin tags on the chest and neck, Dr. Kellett uses electrodessication – an electric needle that zaps them off ($30).

From HELLO! Canada, February 2009 - Written by Alison Garwood-Jones

Star Gazing - Take a cue from the red carpet to add a little razzle-dazzle to your bridal beauty style. The result: instant glamour and sophistication.

SKIN SECRETS

With a star-studded patient list, dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett of DLK on Avenue in Toronto, knows how to achieve picture-perfect skin. Flawless skin doesn’t happen overnight! The most gorgeous celebrities take time to prepare for major events. Here are her tips to get you glowing for your big day.

In the Clear
Start laser light treatment, Lumenis, six months prior on both your face and chest to clear your skin of blemishes.

Blast Off
Three months before, blast those last few inches with fat-liquifying UltraShape.

Get Glowing
Smooth out skin with a diamond peel, one month prior, to help you achieve a radiant glow.

Daily Defence
Use sunblock with 1% retinol and 35% vitamin C everyday to prevent damage from UVA rays.

From WeddingBells - Spring/Summer, 2009

Get Glowing…At Home Exfoliation and Microdermabrasion

Think about purchasing an at-home microdermabrasion kit? Here’s what you need to know before you scrub away

Take a look at any celebrities and you’ll find perfectly glowing, youthful skin-no matter what their age. How do they do it? Well most are lucky enough to be able to treat themselves to regular skin-care treatments, and microdermabrasion is one of the most popular techniques. It’s thorough enough to remove layers of the skin, yet gentle enough to involve no downtime afterwards.

Microdermabrasion 101

With Neutrogena spokesmodel Kelly Preston singing the praises of at home kits, they certainly seem worth a try. Bur first, follow our list of dos and don’ts for these DIY kits so you’re not left red in the face.

A ‘lite’ version of the more extreme dermabrasion, microdermabrasion sloughs off dead skin cells on your face by using a polishing system of cream and microsized scrubbers (diamonds and crystals). Used in a circular motion, the micro-scrubbers buff away the dead cells, revealing new, younger looking skin and giving a rosy glow. Celebs such as Dita von Tesse (who has said she loves the way it makes her “skin look and feel afterwards”), Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow use it for their famously flawless faces.

What are the pluses and minuses of an at-home kit versus a professional treatment? A dermatologist’s office or a specialist spa will be able to give you a more customized treatment, whereas an at-home kit purchased at the drugstore or the beauty counter isn’t tailored to a specific skin type. Also, microdermabrasion at a dermatologist’s office can give you something a DIY kit can’t-suction. “This is a key difference,” explains Dr. Lisa Kellett of DLK on Avenue Dermatology in Toronto. “The suction will lift the dead skin away after it has been buffed. This results in cleaner, fresher skin, whereas with an at-home kit, the dead skin is buffed away, but not completely removed.” That said, there are some decent at-home offerings available.

For Sensitive Skin

Use a mild, soothing cleanser, such as Cetaphil or Spectro Jel. A gentle cleanser will bring moisture back into the skin and leave a cooling effect to help distressed skin. Also use an oil-free, cooling moisturizer to help calm irritated skin. Visit a dermatologist. They can offer some soothing treatments (and medication if needed) in-office and help you understand why your skin has reacted the way it has. Don’t use the microdermabrasion kit again and stay clear of exfoliating until the skin condition improves.

Do…

Know your skin. Dr. Lisa Kellett of DLK on Avenue Dermatology recommends seeing a dermatologist before purchasing an at-home kit from the cosmetics counter.

* Use a good cleanser after exfoliating. “If you have oily skin, try one with salicylic acid,” suggests Dr. Paul Cohen of the Rosedale Dermatology Centre in Toronto. Don’t forget to use one that won’t clog your newly cleaned pores.
* Follow up with sunscreen. “You are exposing new skin that could be extra-sensitive to sun damage,” warns Cohen.    
* View the at-home treatments as upkeep and not the same as a visit to a specialist. “It’s really like a good exfoliation system,” says Kellett.    
* Splurge. “Cheap usually isn’t better,” recommends Kellett. “It’s like comparing a Toyota with a BMW. So when choosing an at-home kit, you want the best quality for that type of product.

Don’t…

Get over-zealous. Scrubbing to try to get rid of acne of dull skin could really leave you red in the face. “You can strip your skin of its natural oils,” says Cohen.

* Scrub vigorously. “You can leave your skin irritated, red, dry and blotchy,” explains Kellett. Seeing a dermatologist and discussing how often you should be using it will help keep you glowing.
* Use it if you have underlying skin issues before consulting a professional. Again, you could be making the issue worse, not helping it.    
* Replace your trips to the dermatologist with the at-home kits. “Think of it more as a way to maintain your glow from the derm’s office until your next visit,” suggests Kellett.
* Use in conjunction with strong acne medications. “These medications and acne treatments tend to already exfoliate the skin,” explains Cohen. “So this could overdo it.

From Hello Magazine - text by Jennifer Weatherhead.

Beauty 911-Star Studded Secrets

FOR THOSE LAST-MINUTE OPENING-NIGHT EMERGENCIES

The stars make sure they know where to turn for last-minute emergencies. Because of the advanced medical training that Canadian-educated dermatologists are known for globally, many celebs and their handlers would have had special numbers on speed-dial during the festival. According to Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett, some of the crises at festivals and their quick fixes include:

Problem: Acne breakouts.
Solution: There are a number of 30-something stars with acne. Lumenis 1 light treatments and intralesional injections of steroids are used to decrease the size and redness of a pimple within hours.

Problem: Acute skin reaction to a cosmetic product. One star started a new anti-aging skin cream three days before her film's screening and she developed a scaly, itchy red rash all over her face.
Solution: A combo of prescription pills, a compounded prescription ointment and medically directed compresses, ensured that she was picture-perfect for her screening.

Problem: Frown lines, forehead lines and crow's feet.
Solution: Last-minute touch-ups of Botox.

Problem: Cold sores that can be notoriously difficult to hide.
Solution: Kellett's treatment includes a high dose of antiviral pills, which can decrease the intensity and size of the outbreak.

Problem: Photo ops and extreme close-ups.
Solution: Kellett steps in with "urgent" lip enhancement (usually a more prominent upper lip) or improved cheekbone definition done with a deep volume filler.

Problem: Wardrobe changes. Celebrities change their choices days (or even hours) before the event only to realize they're exposing ugly moles or skin tags.
Solution: Moles and skin tags can be removed hours before a screening without visible effects.

Problem: Sunburn. One 20-something celeb fell asleep in the sun the day after a late night and awoke five hours later a painful shade of red.
Solution: Prescription anti- inflammatory pills, ointments and compresses got it under control in time for her screening a few days later.

Problem: Poison Ivy. One star spent time in Muskoka before the festival and developed a nasty case just days before her film's premiere.
Solution: Immediate treatment with prescription medications and a specialized topical regimen erased all traces of the unsightly red rash.

From the Toronto Star, September 24, 2006. 

Beauty Secrets High-Tech Skin

NOT ALL STARS ARE NATURAL BEAUTIES. IT TAKES A VILLAGE TO GET THEM PREPPED FOR THEIR CLOSE-UPS

They looked flawless under klieg lights, at parties or just walking around town.  But it didn't just happen overnight. Stars have a battery of miracle workers to call when they know they're going to brave the zoom lenses.

As dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett of DLK on Avenue in Toronto explains, the regimen often starts way ahead of time.

ONE MONTH BEFORE
All ages:
Begin intensive treatment with pharmaceutical grade vitamins A and C topically, which together act on fine wrinkles and constitute an antioxidant regimen to brighten skin.

20s
If prone to acne, begin acne control and maintenance treatment using water-based, oil-free skin care and makeup formulas (as mother always said, it's better to prevent breakouts than treat them). Kellet's line, CLEAR, is a good choice. For fast control, she recommends one or two treatments of Levulan Photodynamic Therapy for immediate effect.

30s
30-something stars, such as Penelope Cruz, can use Botox treatment for frown lines and crow's feet and enhance their lips with injectable fillers. Stars with fair skin, such as Reese Witherspoon and Kate Winslet, should seek treatment by a dermatologist for redness and spider veins on the face using an Nd: YAG laser, which treats both quickly and easily.

40s and 50s
Remove brown age-spots on the face, backs of hands and chest with a Q - switched ruby laser. Botox treatment can lift the brow (creating a non-surgical "eye lift effect") and also remove neck lines (necklace lines).

From the Toronto Star, September 24, 2006.  To read the entire article please click here

Film Festival will bring celebrities to Yorkville clinic for their Botox top-ups, non-invasive lipo-suction.

Toronto hotpot for all the beautiful people

The Toronto International Film Festival unspools on Thursday and everyone, especially celebs, wants to put his/her best fest face forward.

Dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett does some of the celeb tweaking at DLK on Avenue, a dermatology and cosmetic laser surgery clinic, at 108 Avenue Rd., former location of Mira Linder Spa.

Kellett has been fielding appointments for months. In fact, DLK is having Botox Saturdays during the festival.

"Celebrities will want to come in and freshen up," she says. Results of Botox take 3 to 7 days so the initial procedure is not done the day of.

Kellett has a celeb clientele who has been known to come, via Buttonville Airport, just for the day. They use a back door. She has a private deck for VIPs.

She won't drop any boldface names but gets referrals from satisfied customers in Hollywood, clients who don't want surgery. Her work is non-surgical; nothing is left on the cutting room floor. She does, however, do some mopping up.

"Lips should look like they belong on your face and not something you see in a magazine," she says.

Kellett is expecting to see some familiar faces, actors she has worked on while they have been filming in Toronto. They inevitably return to see her when they are back promoting the film and during the film festival. They could be requesting a microdermabrasion facial, a superficial diamond peel that exfoliates and requires no down time.

"There is no redness after 20 minutes," Kellett swears. "It really brightens up the skin."

Another quick fix is a ruby laser treatment on brown spots on the neck, chest or hands. Kellett will also do a lot of acne treatments for those flare-ups before the film premiere caused by stress, jet lag or just plain partying.

And celebs could always book a trial session of UltraShape, the first non-surgical body contour treatment (i.e. surgery-free liposuction) not yet available in Los Angeles. Each session promises a reduction of between 3 and 7 centimetres, and three monthly sessions are recommended at $1,000 per.

"It liquefies fat," she explains. "You focus the ultrasound to blast the fat, like kidney stones are blasted out."

Where does the fat go?

"It is released to the liver, where it breaks down and is released to the blood stream." "The weight stays the same but the measurements are smaller," says Kellett. "The results are permanent as long as the client doesn't gain weight."

That's where personal chefs and trainers come in.

From The Toronto Star, August 31, 2007 - Text by Judy Gerstel

Toronto Hotpot for all the Beautiful People

Film Festival will bring celebrities to Yorkville clinic for their Botox top-ups, non-invasive lipo-suction.

The Toronto International Film Festival unspools on Thursday and everyone, especially celebs, wants to put his/her best fest face forward.

Dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett does some of the celeb tweaking at DLK on Avenue, a dermatology and cosmetic laser surgery clinic, at 108 Avenue Rd., former location of Mira Linder Spa.

Kellett has been fielding appointments for months. In fact, DLK is having Botox Saturdays during the festival.

"Celebrities will want to come in and freshen up," she says. Results of Botox take 3 to 7 days so the initial procedure is not done the day of.

Kellett has a celeb clientele who has been known to come, via Buttonville Airport, just for the day. They use a back door. She has a private deck for VIPs.

She won't drop any boldface names but gets referrals from satisfied customers in Hollywood, clients who don't want surgery. Her work is non-surgical; nothing is left on the cutting room floor. She does, however, do some mopping up.

"Lips should look like they belong on your face and not something you see in a magazine," she says.

Kellett is expecting to see some familiar faces, actors she has worked on while they have been filming in Toronto. They inevitably return to see her when they are back promoting the film and during the film festival. They could be requesting a microdermabrasion facial, a superficial diamond peel that exfoliates and requires no down time.

"There is no redness after 20 minutes," Kellett swears. "It really brightens up the skin."

Another quick fix is a ruby laser treatment on brown spots on the neck, chest or hands. Kellett will also do a lot of acne treatments for those flare-ups before the film premiere caused by stress, jet lag or just plain partying.

And celebs could always book a trial session of UltraShape, the first non-surgical body contour treatment (i.e. surgery-free liposuction) not yet available in Los Angeles. Each session promises a reduction of between 3 and 7 centimetres, and three monthly sessions are recommended at $1,000 per.

"It liquefies fat," she explains. "You focus the ultrasound to blast the fat, like kidney stones are blasted out."

Where does the fat go?

"It is released to the liver, where it breaks down and is released to the blood stream." "The weight stays the same but the measurements are smaller," says Kellett. "The results are permanent as long as the client doesn't gain weight."

That's where personal chefs and trainers come in.

From The Toronto Star, August 31, 2007 - text by Judy Gerstel.