Healthy Skin Expert Dermatology Advice

Spring 2012 skin care: 5 tips—and products!—for ageless skin

When it comes to your skin, age really is just a number. We chat with dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett for expert skin care tips to combat aging and acne-prone skin in one treatment.

Like awkward first kisses and gossipy mean girls, acne is one of those teenage inevitabilities that you hope, with time, mercifully fades into memory. Yet a new study by the American Academy of Dermatology proves that those post-teen years are not quite as forgiving to our skin. The report found that adult acne is actually becoming more common in women as they enter their 20s and 30s—another biological injustice of aging.

We’ll take the wisdom that comes with getting older any day, but to cope with the resurgence of inflamed, red acne breakouts, we talked to Dr. Lisa Kellett, a dermatologist at DLK On Avenue in Toronto (dlkonavenue.com), for her expert skin-clearing advice. Bonus: Our best bets for products to help reignite that youthful glow.

Skin care tip #1: Look for a double shot of anti-aging and acne treatment.
The fact that 45 per cent of women aged 21 to 30 face regular breakouts while incorporating anti-aging precautions into their beauty regimen is one of those cruel ironies of skin care. The takeaway? Find one product to solve your complexion dilemma. “When it comes to anti-aging skin care, don’t use a product that’s too rich,” advises Kellett. Avoid dense, pore-clogging face creams and lotions and instead opt for gel-based products rich in antioxidants.

TRY: The exfoliating microbeads in Aveeno Positively Ageless Rejuvenating Scrub (approx. $9.97) polish skin while the Vitamin C-rich formula works to reverse signs of aging. Get glowing!

Skin care tip #2: Feed your beauty routine.
We’ll never tire of hearing that there are no negative side effects from our Coffee Crisp indulgences—well, at least on our skin anyway. “Most of my patients have a great diet and still have acne,” says Kellett. She suggests trying a face gel laden with benzoyl peroxide or antioxidants to clear away sticky, plugged-up pores.

TRY: To reduce pigmentation caused by acne scarring, try Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution ($54), packed with Activated C (a clarifying and fast-acting Vitamin C derivative) and illuminate winter-dulled skin this season.

Skin care tip #3: Get out with the old.
The most common areas that Kellett notices acne breakouts in adult females are the chin and cheeks. And while hopping between a slew of skin-clearing products is tempting when those unsightly zits appear, she recommends giving new products a one-month trial period before deciding if they’re working for you or not.
TRY: Philosophy’s Help Me Retinol Night Treatment ($59) works to both cleanse and minimize and pores, while reducing fine lines and wrinkles and results become clear in about eight weeks.

Skin care tip #4: Get three times the protection.
While tending to the emotional and physical wounds of aging—and now bumpy— skin, don’t neglect your regular, daily dose of SPF protection. Kellett recommends applying sunscreen in the form of a clear spray, so that the non-greasy, airlight protectant evaporates quickly into pores, without trapping in excess oil or product from heavy creams into skin.
TRY: Protecting SPF 30 Spray ($35) from Kellett’s line of skincare products, Kellett Skincare, a paraben-free UVA/UVB protectant that’s safe for oily and acne-prone skin, available soon at the clinic and kellettskincare.com.

Skin care tip #5: Know when to go for the diamond treatment.
While the acne severity and each person’s response to topical treatment varies significantly, diamond-peel microdermabrasion is a sensitive-skin safe option for treating the fine lines and wrinkles of aging, and the blackheads and enlarged pores from skin that just won’t grow up.
TRY: DLK On Avenue offers the non-invasive treatment, which takes about 30 minutes per session (from $150 per treatment) and uses laser-cut diamonds to slough away dead skin while stimulating collagen production and new skin cells for a radiant, 24-carat glow.

From ELLE Canada Online - Written by Ava Baccari | April 13, 2012

Skin Care for the Ages - Beautiful Skin in your 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s

A summary of a few salient points on how skin develops throughout different life cycles.

Written by Dr. Lisa Kellett - DLK on Avenue

Your skin in your thirties:
-This is when you will first see signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, in the skin around the eyes, mouth and neck.
-More water is lost which leads to drying and decreases the skin's natural protection barrier.

Along with daily sunscreen, your skin needs extra moisture, as it tends to get drier as we age. So consider using a richer moisturizer and start using the Vitamin A at night.

Your skin in your forties:
-Dryness of the skin increases at this stage and sunspots, age spots and pigmentation might appear in the late forties, depending on your sun behaviour. This is also where you will start to see changing in the skin on the backs of your hands, and possibly in the chest area as well.
Like it or not, at this stage “we” are starting to age, so you must be diligent about using Vitamin A at night, and now just like your glass of OJ is good for your body, start using Vitamin C in the morning for your skin.

Your skin in your fifties:
-In your fifties, and I am afraid Hollywood has not painted an accurate picture of today’s woman in her fifties, sagging skin on the neck area starts to form jowls and the skin on your neck, hands and chest tends to become thinner and more delicate than that on the rest of your body. If this isn’t enough, your lips begin to thin due to a loss of moisture and collagen, and you may appear to have a turned down mouth due to loss of skin elasticity. Forget about milk baths ladies, just continue with Vitamin A and Vitamin C.

Your skin in your sixties and seventies:
-As we age “gracefully” fine lines will begin to appear on your cheeks, lines from your nose to mouth may become deeper, and marionette lines may also become more pronounced
-Skin looks thinner and more translucent, making things like blood vessels more visible
-Your skin will start to look and feel drier, making lines and wrinkles more prominent along with a loss of volume around the eyes, mouth, cheeks and temples due to fat loss
-The loss of elasticity in the skin at this stage of life along with gravity increase the look of sagging skin so in this case, and every other stage “Prevention is the best medicine” which we will discuss in a moment – ladies in this stage Vitamin A and Vitamin C application is crucial as the skin is very susceptible to the benefits of both Vitamins, especially if delivered in a concentrated form.

Now that we have discussed how the skin ages, let’s look at how we can prevent, slow down and improve our skin to age gracefully.

1. Topicals
Vitamin A and Vitamin C as we have come to realize is an integral part of skin care maintenance and there is clinically no better way to deliver them to your skin then by using topicals that can be mixed into your current skin care

2. Botox
We’ve all heard about it, we all know someone who is doing it, but what is it and why does it work? Botox is an inhibitor that works to relax specific muscles that when contracted form lines. Botox is not a filler, and although people often use terms like Botoxed, or too much Botox, if injected appropriately there is almost no physical indication of the treatment.

3. Injectable Fillers
Most commonly used for Injectable Fillers, which you guessed it, fill in hollows and wrinkles while providing a slight lift, is something called Hyaluronic Acid that is a naturally occurring substance that absorbs moisture in the skin and eventually is broken down and gradually the effects wear off.

4. Skin Tightening
Did you ever think that radiofrequency would be a relevant component to anti-aging? There is an amazing device called Thermage that used radiofrequency to stimulate collagen production and can tighten skin on the face, around the eyes, neck and even on the body.

5. IPL for overall improvement in texture, tone and colour, including Brown Spots and Age Spots
This is the most commonly performed treatment because its results and benefits are so multi-faceted. So how does it work? The Light actually raises and removes pigment from the skin and simultaneously stimulates collagen remodelling.

6. Blu Light for Precancerous Lesions and Adult Acne
Just like sitting under a hair dryer in the days of old, this treatment consists of sitting in front of a Blu Light after an application of a photodynamic prescription drug which for precancerous cells works by destroying damaged cells in the skin and for acne reduces oil production and eliminates acne bacteria in the skin preventing future acne as well.

Lastly the don’t call it beauty sleep for nothing!
Sleep is important for cell repair and regeneration, and lack of essential sleep can impair these processes. The result is skin that does not look as healthy as it could be. Good overall health, including proper diet, exercise, limiting alcohol intake, not smoking and good sleep habits will all help to improve skin's appearance and its ability to heal itself.

FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH - Trying to keep crow's feet and wrinkles at bay? According to the experts, anti-aging creams and lotions don't do much to slow the effects.

You’re not getting older, you’re getting better. Well, maybe. But your skin’s also getting more wrinkly, thinner and dried out, and dermatologists say that even a truckload of over-the-counter anti-aging creams and lotions won’t do much to halt the Mother Theresa look.

“There’s some cursory evidence that (the ingredients of anti-aging creams) used in a test tube and animal model may have an effect,” says Dr. Jason Rivers, a Vancouver dermatologist and professor in the University of British Columbia’s department of medicine. “You can show molecular changes or production of collagen (a key component of skin, collagen changes with age, causing the skin to wrinkle). But whether that translates into an actual clinical result is another issue altogether.”

Products with retinol or vitamin C may stimulate collagen or improve skin appearance, says Rivers. But the effect is “mild and takes a long time.”

In fact, a 2007 Consumer Reports study found that even the top-rated anti-aging potions applied for 12 weeks reduced the average depth of wrinkles by less than 10 per cent. That amount is barely visible to the naked eye, according to the magazine.

And just to deepen those furrows of consternation between your eyebrows, the study also concluded that there was no difference in effectiveness between high-priced and basic drugstore brands.

La Prairie Cellular, the most costly product tested ($335 U.S. for an ounce of day cream at the time of the study) was among the least effective. The top performers included Olay Regenerist cream, then $19 U.S.

All of which makes you wonder just what those advertising claims of an “anti-aging tightening program” and ingredients that “awaken … sleeping stem cells” to generate new skin cells actually mean?

Such claims do have to stay within the boundaries set by Health Canada for cosmetic advertising and labelling. A product, for example, can claim to reduce “the appearance of aging” but not to “reduce aging.” Because these products are classed as cosmetics, not drugs, their efficacy does not have to be proven for them to be sold in Canada.

And don’t put much stock in those advertising references to clinical studies that show the effectiveness of an anti-aging potion.

“Companies put a lot more money into advertising than presenting (clinical) data,” says Rivers, referring to the fact that the studies are generally done by the companies themselves and not published.

Xeridian Clinical Skincare, whose products promise to “rapidly tighten sagging skin” and “gradually lighten irregular pigmentation,” does publish the results of its own internal clinical studies (www.xeridianskincare.com).

They include a 49-per-cent improvement in “deep wrinkle depth” and a 39-per-cent improvement in “fine line depth” after 10 weeks of using the company’s Renew Eye Serum ($59 U.S.).

“We are actually in the process of finding an independent laboratory to do third-party clinical studies of our products,” says lead formulator Brian Mobley in an e-mail. “We like to think that even though the current studies on the website were conducted internally, they at least offer some analysis of how well our products worked in the skin of human volunteers.”

In fact, most anti-aging products do have some effect, even if it’s just adding moisture to the skin to make it look softer and healthier. But an inexpensive moisturizer will do that.

Other products improve the surface appearance of skin by tautening it with a small amount of silicone.

“I don’t have an issue with anti-aging creams as long as the claims are reasonable,” says Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett. Claiming to make you look 10 years younger would be unreasonable; saying it can reduce the appearance of wrinkles is reasonable, she says.

“People often forget that the most important thing for fighting wrinkling is sunscreen. Probably over 80 per cent of the wrinkles we have are due to the sun,” Kellett says.

Smoking and tanning salons also cause wrinkling. Men are increasingly looking to slow the depredations of aging, says Kellett. “They say, ‘I feel good, I work out, but I look tired.’ ”

Male or female, if you do opt for anti-aging creams, she recommends choosing ones that contain at least one-per-cent retinol to stimulate the growth of a new layer of collagen and 35-per-cent vitamin C to slow free radical damage to collagen.

And remember that everyone’s skin is different, so a product that seems to work on your friend, may be less effective for you. Retinol can also irritate some skin.

In the end, though, Father Time always wins.

From the Ottawa Citizen, written by Patrick Langston - February 19, 2011

BEAUTY SECRETS - DR. LISA KELLETT, MD, FRCPC, DABD

We asked three of the most gorgeous cosmetic professionals we know to give us the inside story on their skincare routines and tell us what’s in their enhancement arsenal too.

DERMATOLOGIST DR. LISA KELLETT, 42 - DLK ON AVENUE TORONTO, maintains her great looks and glowing skin through sun protection, vitamin infused products and in-clinic treatments. “Just like a glass of juice is good for your body, vitamins are good for your skin,” she says.

THE DAILY ROUTINE: “I use an exfoliating, gel based cleanser twice a day (Clear Clinical Exfoliating Gel Cleanser, $42; clearadultskin.com), a gel anti-aging moisturizer every night (Clear Clinical Gel Moisturizer, $99) and a sunscreen SPF spray in the morning (Clear Clinical Sunscreen Spray, SPF 30, $34),” says Dr. Kellett. “I always remember to apply sun block to my chest, neck and backs of my hands to protect them while I drive.” She also uses Clear Clinical Potent Vitamin A Booster ($230) and Clear Clinical Potent Vitamin C Booster ($185). “I’m diligent about using vitamin A (1 per cent retinol) at night and vitamin C (35 per cent) in the morning. I increase or decrease the amount used, depending on the season.”

THE WELLNESS FACTOR: “I drink plenty of water, eat lots of veggies and take a multivitamin supplement daily.”

THE PROBLEM SPOT: Dr. Kellett is a mother of four, so when she gets a Thermage treatment — it’s a radiofrequency based skin contouring and tightening treatment that lasts up to two years and starts at $1500 — she uses it to firm up her abdomen, as well as to tone her lower face and neck. “I also do Lumenis One laser treatments (every 2 to 4 weeks, starting at $495) that work on brown spots, spider veins, pore size and overall skin tone and texture. The result is clearer skin that seems to glow.”

SECRET WEAPONS: “Every three to four months I have my nurse treat my crow’s feet, the corners of my mouth and my frown lines with Botox (starting at $240).” Botox works by reducing the contractions of the muscles that cause persistent expression-related lines that can develop over time. “I also have Hyaluronic acid filler injections to remove folds and fine lines. I like them because patients think I look fresh and rested as opposed to overdone.” (Juvéderm and Restylane injections start at $600.)

From Elevate Magazine, January-February, 2011 - Written by Marissa Stapley-Ponikowski

DOCTOR WHO? Finding the right surgeon for your aesthetic needs can be tricky. Kim Izzo determines the questions you need to ask to ensure you make the right decision.

All I wanted was microdermabrasion. Or so I thought. I was over 35 and unhappy with my fine lines and a new-found dullness to my complexion that seemed to appear overnight. So I booked a consultation with a cosmetic surgeon.

“We could do some microdermabrasion…post-op,” the surgeon told me after examining my face for approximately 30 seconds. “But I’d like to suggest a thread-lift.”

Excuse me? Talk about overkill. I ran, not walked, to the nearest exit. How could I have been so wrong? But what if he was right and I did need surgery to look my best?

It made me wonder: When does a woman need to hear the cold, hard truth, and how does she decide it’s the right thing to do at the right time? As I started doing my research into the various procedures that the surgeon had recommended, I realized finding the appropriate treatment and the best doctor to dispense it was a bit of a minefield. Here’s what I learned.

BACK TO THE FUTURE

Non-invasive alternatives to surgery have exploded in popularity in recent years, including Botox, injectable fillers, radio-frequency and lasers. Even liposuction has seen nonsurgical alternatives emerge. Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto-based dermatologist, sees the nonsurgical realm as the wave of the future. This coincides with women moving away from the pulled, too tight, overdone aesthetic popular in the past two decades—and favoured by celebrities like Mary Tyler Moore, Joan Collins and Rose McGowan—and accepting subtler, more natural-looking improvements.

Among the latest non-surgical news, Thermage, a procedure that utilizes radiofrequency technology and has been used for years to tighten jowls, stomachs and legs, is now focusing on the eye area. It is claimed to tighten eyelid skin in one treatment, with no surgery, scars or downtime. More Thermage services are being developed to offer more effective non-invasive treatments for cellulite.

“In the past, there were no treatments for the hands and chest,” adds Dr. Kellett. “However, now we do injectables, which restore volume to the hands and chest so lines disappear and veiny, old hands look younger.”

Of course, there is something to be said for taking baby steps toward that soft, firm skin you covet. “Skin tightening and injectable fillers have improved to such an extent that for many patients, surgery is not necessary,” says Dr. Kellett. “Dermal fillers, for example, can make patients look seven to 10 years younger. In fact, many patients continue to do dermal fillers even after they have surgery.”

Question period:
Four important things to ask your surgeon:

How long will the results last?
You need a timeline for planning and to make sure your expectations are realistic—including a breakdown of the various procedures—in order to make an informed decision that takes all aspects of the surgery into consideration.

What are the risks of the procedure? What if there is a complication - who pays the costs?
The surgeon should inform you in advance of all short and long-term risks, future potential costs, and who will pay if touch-ups are needed.

What if the procedure does not work? What is the next step?
An experienced surgeon will have a reasonable idea of the outcome. In the case of some surgeries, such as a tummy tuck, they should explain that touch-ups are normal and expected. All of this should be explained in detail in order to manage your expectations and reassure you that everything will be done to make you happy with the results.

What is the length of healing time and how much downtime should I expect?
This will differ from patient to patient and depend on the type of surgery. You should have a reasonably accurate (barring unforeseen difficulties) timeline for recovery, post-operative visits and return to normal activity, including work, exercise and even sex (sorry).

From FASHION Magazine, October 2010 - Written by Kim Izzo

Run-down execs and celebs embrace the vitamin drip

The waiting room at the Dempster Clinic in Toronto is designed for relaxation: Patients can kick back in one of four oversized leather loungers, watch a DVD on the flat-screen TV or take a snooze. They typically enjoy a cocktail, too.

No, not a martini or a manhattan in a chilled stem glass, but a cocktail containing vitamins and minerals dripping slowly into their veins.

Intravenous micronutrient therapy (IVMT) has been used for decades as an alternative treatment for chronic conditions such as asthma and fibromyalgia.

Recently, however, people suffering from the modern ailment of burning the candle at both ends have begun to add the drips to their laundry list of anti-aging remedies and lifestyle enhancements.

“I wake up the next day and just feel better,” says Ann Layton, who runs a busy public-relations agency in Toronto and goes to the Dempster Clinic every two months or so. “I have a lot of late nights and I'm always travelling. Sometimes I'm just not eating properly and it helps when I'm crossing all those time zones.”

Athletes, rock stars and scientists are also among those frequenting naturopathic doctors for the fast-acting boosters. One California nurse told CNN last year that she administered a popular form of the injections – called Myers' cocktails after the Baltimore doctor who pioneered them – to the late Michael Jackson instead of prescription medication. Last month, famed scientist and author Raymond Kurzweil attributed his good health in The New York Times to intravenous therapy.

The main benefits of Myers' cocktails, advocates say, is the efficiency with which the nutrients contained in them – high doses of vitamins C, B6 and B12 as well as water-soluble minerals such as magnesium – are absorbed when injected directly into the bloodstream. Separate infusions of glutathione, an antioxidant that is present in the body but diminishes over time, are used to bolster the immune system, revive skin tone and smooth out complexions. Chelation therapy is another intravenous procedure in which a synthetic amino acid called EDTA (ethylene diamine tetra-acetic acid) helps to remove heavy metal toxicity.

IV devotees compare post-therapy results to a shot of strong medicine or the afterglow of a week-long vacation, citing radiant skin, improved energy and a feeling of well-being.

“To be honest, I can't tell you what's placebo and what's not,” says MTV Canada personality Dan Levy, who underwent IV treatment a year and a half ago to overcome a bout of bad colds. Levy says he felt stronger following his 45-minute procedure, which he describes as “cooling all through the body,” but concedes that psychology may also have been a factor. “Just knowing that that many vitamins were infused into my bloodstream ... couldn't have been a bad thing.”

John Dempster, the naturopathic doctor who has been administering intravenous therapies at his eponymous clinic for four years, emphasizes the health benefits of Myers' cocktails over more superficial ones.

“We're a wellness clinic and medical clinic, not a fad clinic: These need to be used responsibly,” he says. “I'm not here to provide a quick fix. I'm here to provide adjunct therapy and a proper foundation of health.”

Still, the doctor admits, he often sees patients who are not so much sick as they are exhausted and dealing with adrenal fatigue and weakened immune systems (and, occasionally, extreme hangovers). Last month, for instance, a music label had him on call during the MuchMusic Video Awards in case any artists were on their last legs (as it turns out, his services weren't needed this year). In 2009, one band also invited him to be its tour doctor after members had positive responses to the therapy.

Alison Dantas, chief executive officer of the Ontario Association of Naturopathic Doctors, says people's fast-paced, frenetic lives are what is prompting more interest in naturopathic medicine and IVMT. While underscoring the difference between a recreational boost like caffeine and the injections, which must be given by trained professionals, she takes no issue with their trendy turn. “It raises awareness about complement therapies and medicines that assist people in staying healthy,” she says.

Of the 867 practising naturopaths in her province, Dantas says, 156 are intravenous-certified. She expects that number to increase. “We see a growing need because of the lifestyle of the population; it's very effective in mitigating the risks of chronic disease but also managing chronic disease,” she says of Myers' cocktail.

The treatment gets its name from Maryland physician John Myers, who is credited with using the injections to treat fatigue, chest pain and palpitations. Shortly after he died in 1984, another doctor, Alan Gaby (who had never met Myers), began caring for many of the late physician's patients and developed a modified injection that is the foundation of what naturopaths administer today.

“In a perfect world, this would be a component of general medical practice for a particular usage,” Gaby says by phone from Concord, N.H., where he is working on finishing a textbook, Nutritional Medicine, to be published later this year. “Do I think it should be used for heart failure? Yes. For glowing skin? No.”

Regardless of why patients use it, IV therapy appeals to many proponents because of its ease and convenience, eliminating the need, for instance, to constantly pop pills.

“I take a multivitamin at home,” says Layton, the PR executive. “But when I'm travelling, I don't want to schlep 18 bottles of vitamins with me.”

Layton began receiving IVMT treatment years ago while battling a serious illness. Now fully recovered, she goes to the Dempster Clinic whenever her energy is low, asserting that “there's no downside” to the procedures.

Perhaps not, but “there's no good evidenced-based studies to support them,” counters Toronto dermatologist Lisa Kellett, who says Gaby's own paper, published in the Alternative Medical Review in 2002, is to date the most comprehensive research on the subject.

Moreover, she says, our “bodies are not meant to metabolize vitamins via IV. We were designed to get minerals and vitamins through our stomachs.”

Kellett's biggest complaint about IVMT treatment, however, is the cost, which runs upward of $100 a drip (more than double what Gaby says injections cost when he stopped practicing in 1995).

A bottle of multivitamins, Kellett adds, costs around $15.

So is Myers' cocktail the elixir fans claim? This reporter's experience with the procedure – administered by Dempster – yielded a negligible result. There was no post-spinach jolt of energy or strength à la Popeye and little discernible difference in my skin. (In fairness, I had just returned from a vacation.)

Dempster, however, stands by its benefits, citing how the concentration of antioxidants “quench disease and slow down the aging process.”

And Layton, for one, plans to continue her treatments. “My job requires that I be in public, so it's money well spent. If I feel blah, it's not helping my business, so I look at it as a business expense.”

The fortysomething exec even hopes to persuade a friend to get in on the intravenous action. “It's like a manicure – it's boring. You might as well bring someone with you.”

From the Globe and Mail, July 10, 2010 - Beauty and Wellness by Amy Verner

Fantastic Four - These all-star ingredients are essential additions to every anti-aging aresenal

Antioxidants

We all know the benefits of antioxidants in our diets – foods like spinach, blueberries and strawberries are rich in vitamins and bioflavonoids that help detoxify cells. And when it comes to skin care, antioxidants also play a crucial role. While sunscreen is still the ultimate anti-aging cream, anti-oxidants supplement its benefits. “Ninety per cent of skin aging is cause by free radical damage that stems from environmental aggressors like UV rays, pollution and smoking,” says Dr. Diane Madfes, a New York City-based dermatologist.

Free radicals set off a chain reaction in our skin’s cells, which results in lines, wrinkles, uneven pigmentation and a loss of firmness and elasticity.

Antioxidants come to the rescue like search-and-destroy operatives, seeking and neutralizing free radicals in our skin. “They boost the skin’s repair mechanism, which helps keep aging at bay.” says Dr. Madfes.

Since there are several types of free radical damage, it’s best to use a cocktail of antioxidants to achieve the optimal result. “The combination of ingredients work in synergy for a boosted effect,” says Donna Paty, national education manager for Kiehl’s. Look for products that combine vitamins A and C and green tea or have a “superhero” antioxidant like acai berry or idebenone that packs more punch.

Peptides

Peptides are the building blocks of our cells and increase cellular production. “Peptides act almost like a light switch – they ‘turn on’ the skin’s cells to start collagen and elastin production,” says Dr. Madfes. As we age, these naturally occurring peptides break down and their complex signaling system for cells is fragmented, causing wrinkled, saggy skin. That’s where peptides come in. When you apply peptides to your skin, it “tricks” your skin into thinking that it has lost collagen and spurs it to make more.

The most popular peptide for cosmetic use is palmitoyl pentapeptide (a.k.a. Matrixyl), but there are also copper peptides, neuropeptides, marine peptides and hexapeptides, to name a few. “Peptides are all about optimizing cell production,” Dr. Madfes says. Over time, the skin gains resiliency and elasticity and is thicker and firmer, and you’ll notice a smoothing of fine lines and wrinkles. The reason why peptides are so effective is that peptide molecules are small enough to penetrate the top layer of the skin to target collagen-producing cells – unlike collagen molecules themselves, which are too large to penetrate the skin.

AHAs

Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) may sound scary, but they act as your skin’s secret weapon for a smooth, radiant complexion. While other anti-aging all-stars work to target collagen and elastin production, AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acid, target the surface for the skin. Ultimately they accelerate exfoliation and keep pores clear, which is especially important if you are acne-prone or have hyperpigmentation. “AHAs are about improving the texture and clarity of the skin. They minimize the appearance of scars, fine lines and sun spots,” says Dr. Madfes. When applied on the skin, AHAs work to “melt” the bonds between skin cells to accelerate exfoliation. “Just remember – anytime you put a glycolic on, it’s normal to feel a tingle,” says Dr. Madfes. “But if it’s stinging for longer than five minutes, you should discontinue using it.”

Try a weekly glycolic peel to get glowing, or use and AHA in your daily moisturizer. Ten per cent glycolic acid is the maximum percentage allowed in over-the-counter peel or moisturizer. If you have sensitive skin, start with a milder dose like four per cent and work your way up. Keep in mind that because of their powerful exfoliating abilities, AHAs make your more sensitive to the sun, so always wear at least an SPF 15 whenever you are outside. 

Retinol
(Clear Clinical Vitamin A Booster featured)

“Retinol is the gold standard when it comes to anti-aging,” Dr. Madfes says. Retinol in all its forms (i.e. vitamin A, retinoic acid, tretinoin and it prescription-strength version, Renova), targets the fibroblasts that support collagen and elastin, ultimately promoting skin renewal and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. Make it part of your evening routine, advises Dr. Madfes. “UV rays from the sun deactivate the retinol, so you get a more effective treatment at night.”

The one drawback is that retinol can cause skin irritation, so if you’re introducing it into your skin-care regimen, do it slowly. Apply two times a week at night, gradually building up to using it on a daily basis.

From HELLO! CANADA Magazine, May 3, 2010 - Beauty written by Jill Dunn

10 Ways to Keep Your Skin Clear

Healthy skin creates the first impression for your healthy body. So make your skin look fabulous! With today's hectic lifestyle, stronger UV rays than ever before, and ever-increasing air pollutants, your skin takes a beating. But have no fear, it only takes a few good habits to ensure your skin looks and feels great! I consulted with Toronto dermatologist, Dr. Lisa Kellett on her recommendations for attaining great skin.

Here are 10 suggestions from Dr. Kellett on how to get rid of stubborn blemishes, and maintain great-looking skin in our day-to-day lives:

AVOID THE SUN LIKE THE PLAGUE!
The easiest way to maintain healthy skin is prevention! UV rays are a form of energy, which can be too strong for skin cells and daily exposure built up over time can cause irreparable damage. UV damage results in the appearance of wrinkles, or worse, can cause DNA mutations in skin cells which could lead to cancer. Dr. Kellett suggests a daily moisturizer with SPF 30 protection or higher, a hat, and sun-protective clothing.

DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL'S BEST FRIEND!
Dr. Kellett recommends getting a treatment called "diamond microdermabrasion" once every 4 weeks. It helps to exfoliate dead skin cells, open pores and results in a "fresh face" glow. Most dermatologists and plastic surgeons offer this treatment; so don't forget to mention it at your next appointment.

WATER-BASED, OIL FREE GELS
Are best if you have acne prone skin. Dr. Kellett also recommends staying away from white lotions and creams which can cause breakouts. A great water-based product to try is Spectro Jel, it's gentle on all skin types, and very affordable, available at Shoppers Drug Mart (500mL, under $15)

MOISTURIZE AT NIGHT.
Dr. Kellett recommends using a moisturizing gel that contains 5% benzoyl peroxide on acne prone areas at night. A gel with this ratio of benzoyl peroxide is probably best if formulated by a pharmacist. However, products like Proactive Solutions contain just 2.5% of the active ingredient and are available in most major retail stores these days.

GIVE YOUR MOISTURIZER A BOOST!
If you have a nighttime moisturizer that works well for you, but would still like to see an improvement, try adding a boost of Retinol to it. Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is great for solving acne problems, and has some anti-aging properties as well. You will often find Retinol as the key ingredient listed in many anti-aging products. Retinol capsules are easily available on Sephora.com, just look for Philosophy's "Retinol Booster Caps" (60 capsules, $50).

START YOUR DAY WITH A BURST OF VITAMIN C.
Even if we are great with preventing bad skin, the occasional blemish is inevitable, Dr. Kellett recommends using a Vitamin C booster on stubborn post-acne marks. If possible get a booster with at least 35% Vitamin C, the best formulation would be a serum from a pharmacist. As an alternative, Philosophy (available on Sephora.com) offers a Turbo Booster C Powder (0.25oz, $35) that can be added to any moisturizer.

IMPROVE YOUR DIET.
Dr. Kellett reminds us that our skin reflects our overall health and the saying "garbage in equal's garbage out" is true. Strive to maximize your intake of vegetables and minimize your intake of fat. Drinking lots of water is also great for your skin and overall health as well.

FOR STUBBORN ACNE
That doesn't respond to topical well there is now the option of photodynamic therapy, which is painless and effective without the use of pills. Photodynamic therapy should only be done in a dermatologist or plastic surgeon's office, with a proper assessment from a specialist-- not everyone is a good candidate for this procedure.

HANDS OFF!
Never, ever, pick or have extractions done. Both can lead to infection, scarring and cyst formation.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS...
Tried everything at the drug store and nothing works? Make an appointment to see a Dermatologist! There are many treatments to help you achieve clear skin, and a dermatologist is the best person to consult with to help you reach that goal!

From My Mini Guide 2 Fashion Online, December 31, 2009 - Written by Danila Shaw

Pillow envy - The EnVy Anti-Aging/Wellness Pillow

This article is from the Windsor Star.  The enVy Pillow is now available at DLK on Avenue.

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How can this be so 'healthy'?

FIND YOUR COMFORT ZONE

- What: The EnVy Anti-Aging/Wellness Pillow

- Where: Exclusively at Esteem Medical Esthetics, 500 Manning Rd., Tecumseh, 519-979-2235

- Price: Suggested $199, with five-year guarantee from Young Innovations, the manufacturer.

I was hooked the minute I heard the name: The EnVy Anti-aging/Wellness Pillow.

Actually, the "wellness" part didn't even register when the pillow was reverently placed in my hands. I stroked the satiny fabric travel bag and gave the memory foam a squeeze.

The presentation was beautiful, but it was the anti-aging properties that caught my eye. And truth to tell, my eyes weren't looking so hot that day.

Years of sleeping on my side, my face mashed into all those fluffy feathers, were taking a toll.

The lines that used to disappear by the time I left for work? Still there at noon. The cheeks that liked to sink into the down as I drifted off to sleep? Sinking faster than the Titanic.

Here was a chance to set things right.

So I took home the Canadian-made EnVy pillow, which was invented by Kathy Young Keefe and Kim Renton, two registered nurses living in the Toronto area.

They'd come to the conclusion that all the Botox, injections and topical treatments in the world couldn't do their job if you were going to spend eight hours a night sleeping on your face.

It took two years to come up with a design that would accomplish both the anti-aging and wellness goals: A pillow that would protect the contours of your face while aligning your neck and spine to improve posture and take the pressure off your joints.

Chiropractors gave it their seal of approval because it helped realign the body to reduce muscle pain and headaches.

Those with TMJ and orthodontic appliances said it helped relieve chronic face and jaw pain. Those performing cosmetic procedures gave it the thumb's up for its therapeutic properties.

Now, I could go into all the ergonomic details and tell you about the sloped sides that cradle your head (it works whether you sleep on your side or back) and guides you into the perfect position based on the "V" design. But you can go to www.envypillow.com for more on that. You can even watch a video.

I'll just tell you that after four full months of using it, there's a definite difference. Would you notice? Maybe not.

But I've spent a lot of time scrutinizing the results, and from the first week I could see:

- Significantly reduced puffiness around the eyes.

- Less noticeable nasal labial folds from the nose to either side of the mouth.

- Fewer lines and less sagging on my neck.

- Better posture and less stiffness in the shoulders.

- More restful sleep, improved circulation and reduced snoring (even though I never snore.)

Perhaps the best endorsement came from a friend who said my face didn't look as "smunched" as it used to.

That was enough for me.

Now, you probably won't fall in love the minute you rest your head on the EnVy. It takes some getting used to. You'll have to wiggle around to find the best V slope that will tilt your head slightly up while repositioning your shoulders back.

But it doesn't take long to find the comfort zone. And once you've got that down pat, you won't leave home without it. Seriously.

When you do travel, take along that satiny travel bag.

OTHER FEATURES TO NOTE:

- The pillow case is made of 100 per cent bamboo, which is environmentally friendly, anti-allergenic, anti-bacterial and wicks away perspiration. The custom fit also keeps the case from creasing, which keeps you from creasing, too.

- The memory foam is made in Canada and relieves pressure points to help prevent sleep lines.

- It retails for a suggested $199, but is guaranteed for five years.

- Available at Esteem Medical Esthetics, 500 Manning Rd., Tecumseh.

From the The Windsor Star, Publish on November 7, 2009 - Written by Karen Hall

Ask a Dermatologist - Decoding Wrinkles

Tackling wrinkles is a priority for many Canadian consumers. Our resident dermatologist, Dr. Lisa Kellett offers a crash course in understanding wrinkles

Cosmetics: To start, what are embryonic wrinkles and how do they form?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Fetal wrinkles commonly known as embryonic wrinkles occur during development in the uterus. They are seen in areas of natural folds such as the neck and palms.

Cosmetics: What are permanent wrinkles and when do they usually form on the face?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Permanent wrinkles can be fetal or they can occur as a result of skin laxity (eg. Nasolabial folds) or frequent movement (crow’s feet). They are usually seen more often in patients over the age of 30 and become more pronounced with age.

Cosmetics: What are reversible wrinkles?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: They are expressive wrinkles that can be treated with Botox to cause a decrease in expressive muscle movement resulting in softening of wrinkles.

Cosmetics: We know that Retinol is a great anti-aging ingredient. But can you tell us about the variations on the molecule?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: There are many forms of Vitamin A including tretinoin, isotretinion, and Retinol. Retinol is better tolerated as it is not as irritating as its cousins above.

Cosmetics: We’ve all heard about wrinkles that occur from repeated muscle contradictions like laugh lines. Can these be prevented?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: These are called expressive wrinkles and occur at sites of repeated muscle contraction. Good examples of are the lines between the eyes, forehead, and crow’s feet. If you want to treat them, the best method is Botox cosmetic which softens the muscles of facial expression.

Cosmetics: What effect do UV rays have on wrinkles?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Most of skin aging (including wrinkles) found in humans is a result of sun exposure rather than intrinsic factors.

Cosmetics: What effect does smoking have on wrinkles?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Smoking has a number of detrimental effects on the skin including skin aging. It definitely contributes to wrinkle formation.

Cosmetics: Does a mild exfoliant help with reducing the look of fine lines?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Exfoliation will remove some layers of the stratum corneum (the upper level of the skin) and might temporarily improve the appearance of the top of the skin.

Cosmetics: What is the best way to treat wrinkles without visiting a dermatologist?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: The most important treatment is prevention…with an SPF Sunscreen of 30 or higher as well as using a hat and avoiding the sun. The second step is using a product with 1% Retinol or higher.

From Cosmetics Magazine - July/August 2009