Healthy Skin Expert Dermatology Advice

Ask a Dermatologist - Decoding Wrinkles

Tackling wrinkles is a priority for many Canadian consumers. Our resident dermatologist, Dr. Lisa Kellett offers a crash course in understanding wrinkles

Cosmetics: To start, what are embryonic wrinkles and how do they form?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Fetal wrinkles commonly known as embryonic wrinkles occur during development in the uterus. They are seen in areas of natural folds such as the neck and palms.

Cosmetics: What are permanent wrinkles and when do they usually form on the face?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Permanent wrinkles can be fetal or they can occur as a result of skin laxity (eg. Nasolabial folds) or frequent movement (crow’s feet). They are usually seen more often in patients over the age of 30 and become more pronounced with age.

Cosmetics: What are reversible wrinkles?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: They are expressive wrinkles that can be treated with Botox to cause a decrease in expressive muscle movement resulting in softening of wrinkles.

Cosmetics: We know that Retinol is a great anti-aging ingredient. But can you tell us about the variations on the molecule?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: There are many forms of Vitamin A including tretinoin, isotretinion, and Retinol. Retinol is better tolerated as it is not as irritating as its cousins above.

Cosmetics: We’ve all heard about wrinkles that occur from repeated muscle contradictions like laugh lines. Can these be prevented?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: These are called expressive wrinkles and occur at sites of repeated muscle contraction. Good examples of are the lines between the eyes, forehead, and crow’s feet. If you want to treat them, the best method is Botox cosmetic which softens the muscles of facial expression.

Cosmetics: What effect do UV rays have on wrinkles?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Most of skin aging (including wrinkles) found in humans is a result of sun exposure rather than intrinsic factors.

Cosmetics: What effect does smoking have on wrinkles?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Smoking has a number of detrimental effects on the skin including skin aging. It definitely contributes to wrinkle formation.

Cosmetics: Does a mild exfoliant help with reducing the look of fine lines?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: Exfoliation will remove some layers of the stratum corneum (the upper level of the skin) and might temporarily improve the appearance of the top of the skin.

Cosmetics: What is the best way to treat wrinkles without visiting a dermatologist?
Dr. Lisa Kellett: The most important treatment is prevention…with an SPF Sunscreen of 30 or higher as well as using a hat and avoiding the sun. The second step is using a product with 1% Retinol or higher.

From Cosmetics Magazine - July/August 2009

What’s New - GENETHERAPY

If you’ve ever wondered how much sun damage you already have—and what your predisposition for skin cancer is in the future—a new screening tool at Toronto’s DLK on Avenue can shed some light on the subject. The dermaDNA Cellular Assessment Kit is the first of its kind to measure the extent of UV damage and how prone your genetics make you to skin cancer later on.

“Skin cancer is the most common cancer - 80,000 Canadians are diagnosed with it every year,” says Dr.Lisa Kellett, principal dermatologist at DLK on Avenue. “This is a good tool to help people become more cognizant of sun protection and staying out of the sun.”

The assessment includes two in-office DNA tests. A simple swab of the skin cells on the inside of the cheek helps Kellett determine whether specific genetic variants are present that indicate a greater risk of developing skin cancer (independent of hair or skin colour). The second swab, taken across the bridge of the nose, shows the degree of photo-damage that’s already taken place. The most common signs that you’ve spent too much time in the sun include brown spots, premature wrinkling, broken capillaries and the appearance of pre-cancerous and cancerous lesions. (Always see a doctor if you notice anything new on your skin or any changes, advises Kellett.)

About two weeks after the assessment, you’ll receive your results, at which time Kellett discusses treatment options. “We talk about prevention;there are also different ways to treat photo-damage, including intense pulsed light, fractional lasers and vitamins A and C,” she says.

The DLK dermaDNA Cellular Assessment Kit is priced at $250. Contact DLK on Avenue at 416-440-2597 or dlkonavenue.com.

From Elevate Magazine, September/October, 2009

10 Bridal Beauty Musts - Get gorgeous for your day in the spotlight by signing on for one (or all) of these high-tech beauty treatments.

1. Microdermabrasion
What is it? At Toronto’s DLK on Avenue (dlkonavenue.com), microdermabrasion is one of the most popular treatments for brides-to-be because it produces immediate and dramatic results. The 30-minute procedure is a superficial type of treatment using very fine laser-cut diamond crystals to remove the dead outer layer of the skin resulting in a smoother skin surface.
Recovery time: None.

2. Restylane
What is it? This dermal filler is largely comprised of hyaluronic acid—a substance found naturally in your skin—that is used to plump and volumize areas of the face which are showing fine lines and signs of aging. Prime treatment areas: forehead lines, eyebrows, lips, marionette lines and cheeks. Over time, hyaluronic acid will be reabsorbed by your body so follow-up Restylane treatments are required every few months.
Recovery time: Next to none. There may be a little redness and skin swelling at the injection site, which typically lasts less than a week.

3. Intense Pulse Light (IPL) Therapy
What is it? If you suffer with hyperpigmentation, rosacea, facial spider veins or have fine lines you want to wave goodbye to, IPL will literally blast them out of sight. Medical grade lasers are used during treatments, which help minimize any redness present in skin and also work to stimulate the production of your own collagen and elastin so skin appears smoother and tighter.
Recovery time: A few days. Post-treatment skin can appear pink and flushed or may even swell depending on the area being treated (ie. the skin in the eye area is very thin and delicate and can be prone to swelling).

4. Oxygen Facial
What is it? A favourite of Madonna (she apparently has one before every show on her “Sticky & Sweet Tour”), this wonder treatment is available in Canada and the only one to have is the one endorsed by her Majesty: the Intraceuticals Oxygen Infusion Treatment. During the 45-minute session your skin is cleansed and prepped with Intraceuticals professional products, which are then activated when medical grade oxygen is sprayed onto your skin. We tried this one at Toronto’s DLK on Avenue and looked 21 again!
Recovery time: None.

5. Laser Hair Removal
What is it? The process is essentially the same as IPL, but this time the laser is aimed at unwanted hair follicles. Gentle lasers, pulsed light and radio frequencies are used to eliminate unwanted hair growth. The best candidates for laser removal are fair-skinned with dark hair. Also, it’s important to note that laser hair removal requires a series of treatments to produce optimum results and sessions are usually booked six weeks apart.
Recovery time: Treated area may appear slightly red following treatment, but that will quickly fade.

6. Botox
What is it? An injectable drug used to relax furrows and facial expression lines. Results last three to four months and a session takes just 15 minutes in your doctor’s office. The most commonly treated areas include eyes, forehead, and lip and nose area. Botox injections are also used to treat hyperhidrosis or excessive sweating of the underarms, feet, palms and wrists. Botox blocks the chemical signal from the nerve to the sweat gland, stopping that area from sweating.
Recovery time: None.

7. Laser Tooth Whitening
What is it? Laser tooth whitening uses a combination of formulated lighting and hydrogen-peroxide-based bleach to whiten teeth. The two work in tandem to bleach away stains without affecting the structure of your teeth. The results of one treatment are often very dramatic, lightening teeth by six to 10 shades! Ongoing maintenance and touch-ups are required to maintain results.
Recovery time: None.

8. Sclerotherapy
What is it? This treatment is designed to diminish and erase spider veins from the legs. A dextrose/salt solution is injected into the vein, which irritates the vein wall causing it to close. Results are visible in one to three weeks. For stubborn veins, IPL treatments may be used in conjunction with sclerotherapy.
Recovery time: None.

9. Cellulite Treatment
What is it? At DLK on Avenue, cellulite is treated via UltraShape Treatment, a non-surgical body contouring treatment, clinically proven to deliver measurable results. The procedure uses a handpiece with advanced tracking and guiding, which targets fat to remove it. Treated areas appear smooth and uniform—bye-bye orange-peel skin. A series of sessions are recommended.
Recovery time: None.

10. Tattoo Removal
What is it? It takes time and patience, but tattoos can be successfully removed using a combo of treatments: ruby lasers, IPL, epidermal peels, medical skin care and topical prescription meds. Amateur tattoos are generally easier to remove than professional ones and the number of treatments you need generally depends on the size of the tattoo and the amount of pigment in it.
Recovery time: Skin will be tender but treatments should be painless when a local anesthesia is used.

From WeddingBells - Fall/Winter, 2009

Beautiful Traditions - Wondering what your something old, new, borrowed and blue will be? We’ve got some beauty idea!

Borrowed
Star Style
When it comes to looking glam, why not do as the glitterati do? Here are three of our favourite red-carpet beauty trends that we love for your wedding day.

RED LIPS
Seen on: Amanda Seyfried
Why we love them: They are a glamour girl classic! Put a fresh spin on this look by skipping the matte lipstick and trying a raspberry-colored lip shine instead.
Try: Philosophy Red Licorice, $16.

BRONZED SKIN
Seen on: Amy Adams
Why we love it: A dusting on the cheeks, chin and forehead makes skin luminous. To get the glow, without the glitter, use a matte powder—we guarantee you will look fresh from St. Tropez.
Try: Cargo Bronzer in Medium Matte, $26.

SMOKY EYES
Seen on: Penelope Cruz
Why we love them: Nothing makes your peepers pop like a good smudge of dark liner paired with sultry, shimmering shadows in complementary shades.
Try: Du Wop Rose Eyes Palette, $36.

Old
Classic Fragrances
Trying to find your wedding-day scent? A great place to start is by sniffing out a few oldies but goodies; juices renowned as favourites by generations of stylish brides. Here are five of the best classics: Chanel No. 5 Eau Première ($150 for 150 ml). Lancôme Trésor Eau de Parfum ($93 for 50 ml). Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Toilette ($78 for 50 ml). Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps Eau de Toilette ($94 for 100 ml). Calvin Klein Eternity Eau de Parfum ($89 for 100 ml).

New
Skin Saviours
Dermalogica’s ChromaWhite TRx line is designed to brighten uneven skin tones. Our pick: Dermalogica ChromaWhite TRx Extreme C, $111 (dermalogica.com). Another facial wonder: Intraceuticals Oxygen Infusion Treatment. We tried it at Toronto’s DLK on Avenue and the results were absolutely stunning.

Blue
Nail Polish
We love the idea of a pretty pedicure with a polish like Rimmel’s Underground Play Fast in Chill ($5) tucked inside your shoes. More great blues: OPI Russian Navy ($11) and Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Xtreme Wear in Ocean View ($3).

From WeddingBells - Fall/Winter, 2009

Body Care: Fight Acne All Over - Pimples don't just pop up on your face, back and chest acne is a big problem, too. Toronto Dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett has the solutions you need.

What are the main causes of body acne?
According to Dr. Lisa Kellett, Principal Dermatologist at DLK on Avenue in Toronto, the main culprit when it comes to body acne is – no surprise here – hormones. Contributing factors are occlusions – like helmets, leotards, and anything that rubs on the skin gathering oil and sweat and hair products such as hairspray and gel exacerbate the problem, too.

How can you decrease the likelihood of body acne?
Dr. Lisa recommends the following: 1) Shower after physical activity 2) Wear clothing that “breathes”, such as natural fabrics including cotton and silk (wool is the exception) 3) And avoid skin and hair products containing minerals

How should teens care for chest and back acne differently than facial acne?
“The skin is thicker in these areas, therefore there are many great topical preparations such as medicated soaps,” says Dr. Lisa. Talk to your dermatologist about what they recommend.

Should teens develop a skin care regimen for their back and chest, similar to using a cleanser, toner, and moisturizer on their face?
Dr. Lisa says yes. Cleansers, toners and acne treatment gels, which contain moisturizer can and should all be used when treating body acne. Avoid any creams or lotions, on these areas. Gels are best.

Sunscreen is a body care must, but it’s known to be greasy. Are there any ingredients to look for/avoid in sunscreen that will help decrease the likelihood of body acne?
A great one is a clear alcohol-based SPF 30 spray sunscreen. It is light yet very effective, and the non-greasy formulas are great for hair bearing skin.

From Teenflare.com - July, 2009